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Morton’s Blue Cheese Steak Fries or a dog’s regurg on frozen tater sticks?

Did the Sacramento Bee run a please-forgive-me Morton’s Steakhouse puff piece in today’s Ticket section? It sure reads like it.

A little back-story: In January 2009, Bee food critic Blair Anthony Robertson drubbed Morton’s (in an article that is now part of the Bee’s archive, which can be read for $2.95 and is probably worth the three bucks). Anyway, the story solicited fevered response online as to whether Robertson went too far in his critique.

Since the review, Robertson has earned a reputation as a scribe with a penchant for scathing take-downs, particularly steakhouses, a la trashing Iron Steaks.

Anyway, in today’s Ticket section, contributor—and junior-college paper Sacramento City Express staffer—Casey Mar reviews Morton’s “Power Hour.” The headline proclaims: “Morton’s a good value for happy hour.”

Oh really?

I’ll let Morton’s of Sacramento’s “Power Hour” menu speak for itself:

Beer - $5 
Sam Adams Seasonal
Budweiser
Bud Light 
Wine - $6 
BV Coastal Cabernet Sauvignon
Canyon Road Chardonnay
Cavit Pinot Grigio
Columbia Crest Merlot 
Mortinis & Cocktails - $7 
Power Hour Cosmo
Power Hour Gin or Vodka Mortini
Power Hour Mojito
Power Hour Jim Beam Manhattan 
$6
Iceberg Wedge Bites
Blue Cheese Steak Fries
Chicken Goujonettes
$7
Mini Crab Cake BLT’s
Smoked Salmon Pizza
Three Prime Cheeseburgers
Four Petite Filet Mignon Sandwiches

Because nothing says “tough bargain to pass up” like $5 Bud Light or $6 iceberg lettuce. (I’ll concede I’ve never had a “Mortini,” however.)

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